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Govt-licensed operatorKarakoram season: Jun–Sep

Chitral travel guide: the Hindu Kush, Tirich Mir and the Kalash

A different world from the Karakoram — Pakistan’s Hindu Kush frontier, the great peak of Tirich Mir, and the unique Kalasha valleys. What to see and how to reach it.

Chitral sits in the far north-west of Pakistan, in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa rather than Gilgit-Baltistan, under the wall of the Hindu Kush. It feels distinct from the Karakoram — a different range, a different culture, and a frontier that was cut off from the rest of the country for much of each winter until recently.

Tirich Mir

The town lies in the shadow of Tirich Mir, at 7,708m the highest peak in the Hindu Kush. It dominates the skyline and is the region’s great mountaineering objective; the walk to its base camp is the classic way to get in close.

The Kalash valleys

South-west of Chitral town lie Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir — the valleys of the Kalasha, who keep a distinct pre-Islamic religion, language and dress found nowhere else. Their calendar turns on three main festivals: Chilam Joshi in spring, Uchal in late summer and Chawmos in midwinter. The valleys are reached by jeep and visited best with a local guide and a light footprint.

Shandur — the roof of polo

East of Chitral, the Shandur Pass at around 3,700m hosts the Shandur Polo Festival each summer — freestyle polo between Chitral and Gilgit teams on what is billed as the highest polo ground in the world. The pass also forms the summer-only road link between Chitral and Gilgit.

Town and side trips

In Chitral town, the old Chitral Fort (Shahi Qila) and the Shahi Mosque sit above the river. A common side trip runs up to the Garam Chashma hot springs, in a valley toward the Afghan border.

Getting there

The Lowari Tunnel now keeps the road from Dir open through the year, ending Chitral’s old winter isolation. There are also weather-dependent flights from Islamabad, and in summer the spectacular crossing over the Shandur Pass from Gilgit.

Plan a Chitral trip

Chitral rewards travellers who want something off the main Karakoram circuit. Tell us whether it is Tirich Mir, the Kalash festivals or a quieter cultural loop you are after, and we will put together a route and the timing to match.

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